Kulturkompasset | critics of culture events

PREMIERE VISION – PARIS -autumn winter 2011-12



mg_0696The autumn winter 2011-12 season is actively of its time, determined to reject a wait-and-see attitude, willingly optimistic. It calls for a redefinition of the boundaries of elegance through fashions broadly influenced by casualwear. It reinforces the bridges spanning the wool and cotton universes, and strengthens the bonds joining the chic and casual worlds.


Alliances of sophistication and ease, activewear and sportswear, are more firmly established.


Fabrics are rigorously offbeat and anything but austere, testifying to their in-depth elaboration. They reveal richness without ostentation, right up through the treatments applied to finished garments. Yarns are once again visible; structures can be easily read and are perceptible to the touch.


Classical and familiar references are in thrall to modernity. The boundaries between fancies and plains, sustainability and technology, authentic & eccentric, are playfully and wittily blurred. Decoration affirms its presence without being aggressive, and contrasts are softened to allow novelty to play a full part in the season.


Softness is built into the heart of fabrics, and suppleness grows protective.


A warm vaporousness and ethereality trace out poetic conquests. Colour finishings and decoration are elaborated in subtle strata. Patterns navigate strange universes, and new harmonies arise unexpectedly from imperfection. Enthusiastically broadeningfashion outlooks, the season is an exhortation to venture far afield in quest of inventive choices, of keen expertise and mad exploration.


Materials and peterns are being noticed at Premiere Vision, Paris,

Materials and peterns are being noticed at Premiere Vision, Paris,









savouring dense and delicious colours with a fullness, a roundness to them, to blunt contrasts,

trigger colour mixes, and give fantasy a real chance.


+ more than nourishing: warm, carefully dosed colourings for deliciously full and fortifying concentrates.

Edible, appealing, approachable, desirable colours. Lush, candied orange, pink and reddish tones.

Tender, gossamer sugary tones.


+ more than natural: a full-bodied coldness, strange yet welcoming, for a palette hinting at ambiguous

landscapes, both industrial and natural. Tones evoking frozen, luminous or leaden horizons. Cool, intense browns.

Organic greens filtered by a synthetic light. A chromatic vocabulary bridging reality and fantasy, drawn from photography.


+ more than essential: elementary yet never ordinary colours. Soberly coloured darks, a softly luminous blonde, perfectly elegant and familiar neutrals. Fundamental yet original colours, rigorous and contemporary, that convey assurance, that serve as springboards to bold acts of daring.


The Fashion Trail:

A path way of discovery and inspiration featuring 9 key areas


9 key areas for you to discover the new season. To find inspiration. To find the right ideas and save time in creating them. To be won over by this solid and poetic season. Areas to approach fabrics at eye level and within reach; fabrics ready to cover, envelop and caress, to broaden the perspectives of a new fashion season.



Created and designed by Imaginers [hall 5]

Discover just what autumn winter III2 will be made of in the General Forum! This podium of the new season presents each of its facets. In terms of colours, that means a range of 23 dense, round and flavourful colours. The direction is sophisticated yet broadly influenced by casualwear. And fabrics are deeply creative, as testified to by the outstanding fabrics covering all the show’s universes, arrayed here on offbeat and poetic presentation «tables» evoking swirls of metal, stairways, architectural crosspieces and even swings…

This forum also displays the fabrics selected for the PV Awards 2010. These are identified by burgundy-coloured labels.

Have a look, take time to appreciate them and make your own selections…and don’t miss the news at noon on the 3rd day, Thursday 16 September, when jury president Ennio Capasa announces the winners live.


At the show are presented:


Design and display by Valérie Olivier [hall 6]

Odd cubes, painted or stretched with canvas in a swath of savoury colours, appear to rise above the Latest News Forum. Pierced with peepholes, slits or skylights, these playful devices contain the weavers’ very latest creations for autumn winter III2.


These fabrics were brought in the evening before the show to the Première Vision fashion team, who worked through the night to group, organise, name, label and display them in time for the show’s opening. An energetic feat aimed at bringing buyers fabrics as close as possible to the moment of their creation.



Created and produced by Première Vision [hall 5]

The film provides a way to shift one’s outlook to better capture the heart of the new season, to seize all of its subtleties, to perceive just what makes it different and unique.Entertaining and poetic, full of inspiration, designed to both decode and immerse, the Autumn Winter III2 Film creates new bridges and opens new viewing angles to round out the concrete, fabric-related, information conveyed in the

show’s various forums.

Full of stimulating sounds and images, it appeals to visitor’s individual sensitivity and imagination, encouraging each to forge his or her own image of the season.


Security check

Security check







In each forum, a « style focus » provides a supplementary key to reading the season.

Seduction Forum. Display by Bettina Witzel [hall 5]. Like a temporary, almost ephemeral, installation, the Seduction Forum plays on lightness and transparency to unveil the creations of the fancy and fluid universe. As if hand-drawn, metallic structures sketch airy frames out of the space, creating intimate and warm areas, and finely lifting fabrics to make them float as if weightless. Here and there are sly winks at figurative silhouettes where words play at wittily punctuating the space and deflecting lines in their


Relax-Distinction Forum

Display by Luc Jimenez [hall 6]

Jostled and overturned by the need for comfort and relaxation for everyday, tailored clothing is evolving. Reflecting this change, products in the Relax and Distinction universes are brought together to engage in a new dialogue in one and the same forum.

The area is populated by strange stilt walkers on four tall and deceptively spindly legs, playing on straight lines and its interactions with a curve. This area elegantly allies the verticle and the horizontal, rigidity and suppleness, formality with nonchalance – a serious refusal of immobility with a resolutely relaxed attitude.

Pulsation Forum

Display by Mona Kim [hall 6]

What is the best way to represent movement, one of the key words of autumn winter III2? How to express its energy and give physical presence to its power? The answer is provided in the Pulsation Forum, where a spectacular whirlwind comes to life. A symbol of anything-but-immobility, this giant sculpture uses simple geometric shapes, broken down like fractals, to convey the feeling of energy, flexibility and fluidity so integral to the universe of sport and high-performance. Playing on curves and flexions, its shape changes according to the observer’s point of view, adding to the sense of mobility. Highly distinctive graphic elements on the flooring extend this visual dynamic.

Actualisation Forum spring -summer 2011

Display by Patrick Comès [hall 5]

Spring summer 2011 emerges once again, this time in the Actualisation Forum. Long bars resembling cross-sectioned rails are layered and crisscrossed in a variable play on assembly and construction. A display full of raw energy, featuring essential fabrics and fashion directions to allow buyers to create their last silhouettes for spring summer 2011.

Presented fabrics were selected on the basis of a survey of major international buyers, conducted by Première Vision.


It is crowded at Premiere Vision, as allways. Paris

It is crowded at Premiere Vision, as allways. Paris

Expofil Forum





Display by Charles de Vaivre [hall 5]

Topped with a sky of umbrellas, the Expofil Forum puts the emphasis on nature. Coloured aluminium supports rise up from piles of raw-logs, celebrating the union of nature and technology. The decor echoes the 3 major themes for the spring summer 2012 season for fibres and yarns: Eco Chemistry, Naive Nature and Dynamic Nature.

Knit developments, specially designed and created for the season, showcase the exhibitors’ innovations. These have been elaborated in partnership with three French firms: Célimène (circular knits), Sycéan-e (flat knits) and Decoster- Caulliez (dyes), coordinated by François-Xavier Hérody.

Complementing these major directions, a new articulation of the forum features individualised spaces presenting a selection of the products of each exhibitor, and underlines their expertise and new products.


Indigo Fashion Area

Design and display: Première Vision [hall 5]

Top to bottom decor! A set that runs from floor to ceiling, from inside to out! A virtuoso display combining fashion directions with exhibitors’ creations to immerse visitors in an intensely generous visual experience.

Thus the «Decor Influences» for autumn winter III2, which punctuate the area with a variety of images, are themselves continued in the patterns of the Indigo designers that cover the furnishings.

A selection of exhibitors’ designs is displayed on the walls of a house drawn straight out of a fairy tale or child’s play.

This elaborate cabin is made from a mix of materials, and decorated inside with exhibitors’ designs illustrating major directions for the children’s market.


As usual for an exhibition/presentation of this high quality there are too some new books, first of all the official catalogue: And in addition:gamme-ss11

Men under Construction


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